Programme PDF

PROGRAMME

DRESSING THE SPANISH WAY
Prestige and usage of Spnish attire at the European Courts ( 16th-17th centuries)

Monday, October 1st: Museo del Traje

Presentation and opening 10:00 First session

I. SPANISH COURT DRESS

Spanish court dress: distinguishing features,
- Amalia Descalzo, Museo del Traje, Madrid.
The dress habits of the Spanish court in historical documents,
- Amelia Leira, Comité científico, Museo del Traje, Madrid.
Black and the royal image,
- José Luis Colomer, Centro de Estudios Europa Hispánica, Madrid.
12:00 Break
Dress and attire of the queens of the House of Austria,
- Rosa María Martí, Museo Textil y de Indumentaria, Barcelona.
Who dresses the king and queen: royal wardrobe and court tailors,
- María José García, Curator, Ayuntamiento de Madrid.
13:30 Discussion

16:30 Second session
II. COSTUME AND ITS IMPLICATIONS
Economic, social and moral aspects of Spanish Golden Age fashion

Sumptuary laws in Spain and restriction of luxury in dress,
- Ruth de la Puerta, Universidad de Valencia.
Sumptuary laws in Spanish Italy,
- Gabriel Guarino, University of Ulster.
The importation of foreign textiles,
- Lucina Llorente, Museo del Traje, Madrid.
18:00 Break
Clothing in Golden Age poetry,
- Jaime Olmedo, Diccionario Biográfico, Real Academia de la Historia, Madrid.
Licence and seduction: the “tapadas” or veiled women in Golden Age literature,
- Carmen Peraita, Villanova University, Philadelphia.
Stage - Street - Canvas: Theaters of Fashion in Golden-Age Spain,
- Amanda Wunder, University of New Hampshire, and Laura Bass, Tulane University.
20:00 Discussion

Tuesday, October 2nd
Tour of the Royal Site of San Lorenzo de El Escorial, guided by the Patrimonio Nacional curator Almudena Pérez de Tudela, focusing on the dress habits of the House of Austria through the pictorial and sculptural representations of the Spanish royal family in the Basilica, Palace and Museums of El Escorial*.

15:00 Bus/Museo del Traje
16:30 Third session
Great Hall of the Monastery of El Escorial

III. REPRESENTATIONS OF SPANISH FASHION

Costume in Spanish 16th century court portraiture,
- Almudena Pérez de Tudela, Patrimonio Nacional, Madrid.
Influence of Spanish fashion on European 16th century court portraiture,
- Annemarie Jordan, Independent Scholar.
Spanish fashion in the aristocratic portraiture of the Duchy of Milan,
- Paola Venturelli, Università dell’Insubria, CVPCL, Como.
18:00 Discussion
19:00 Bus

Wednesday October 3rd: Museo del Traje
9:30 Fourth session

IV. INTERNATIONAL DISSEMINATION OF THE SPANISH MODEL
a) Spanish women at the European courts

Catherine of Aragon at the court of London,
- Maria Hayward, Textile Conservation Center, University of Southampton.
Eleanora of Toledo in Medici Florence,
- Bruna Niccoli, Università di Pisa.
Catalina Micaela at the court of Savoy,
-Franca Varallo, Università di Torino.
Isabella Clara Eugenia at the court of Brussels,
- Emilie Gordenker, National Gallery of Scotland, Edinburgh.
Maria Anna and Margaret of Austria, Empresses in Vienna,
- Beatrix Bastl, Akademie der bildenden Künste, Vienna.
12:00 Break

Casa de Velázquez
12:30
b) French queens at the Spanish courts

Elizabeth of Valois Hispanicized at the court of Philip II,
- Sylvène Édouard, Université de Lyon – III.
Marie Louise of Orleans at the court of Charles II,
- Corinne Thépaut-Cabasset, Château de Versailles.
13:30 Discussion

16:00 Fifth session
V. THE FOREIGN PERCEPTION

Illustrious English gentlemen dressed in Spanish style: the Prince of Wales’ visit to Madrid in 1623,
- Lesley Miller, Victoria and Albert Museum, London.
Criticism and satire of Spanish costume in 17th century England,
- Aileen Ribeiro, Courtauld Institute, London.
Caricatures of Spanish attire in French engravings,
- Véronique Meyer, Université de Poitiers.
17:30 Break
Spanish-influenced costume in Sweden (16th-17th centuries),
- Lena Rangström, The Royal Armoury, Stockholm.
Presence of Spanish fashion in the dress habits of the Hungarian nobility in the 16th and 17th centuries,
- Lilla Tompos, Hungarian National Museum, Budapest.
Spanish fashion in the kingdom of Bohemia under Rudolph II,
- Milena Hajná, Consejo Superior de Investigaciones Científicas, Madrid.
19:30 Discussion

Thursday, October  4th

Tour of the Convent of Las Descalzas Reales focusing on the representation of the figures of the House of Austria, with Patrimonio Nacional curator Ana García.*

* Due to the limitation of it fitted, both tourist itineraries are predicted, exclusively, for the conference speakers.